MrAnderson.info

“E-Books” vs “E-Editions” vs “App Editions” etc . . .

Mr. Anderson — Thu, 17 May 2012 11:11:50 +0000

Update: 2012-05-18 @ 06:42:17 AM

Preface: This post is not meant as an “end all” choice for education: regarding what they should or shouldn’t buy when converting to digital texts. It’s simply my opinion, on the various “e-” terms that are tossed around the market: e-books, e-editions, digital copy, app e-book, etc.

I purposely did not mention or factor in the price of the “e-edition”, cost savings of going with “e-editions”, or the cost of hardware – because that’s not what this post is about.

I believe that my “checklist”, as to what I consider to be a true “e-book”, is valid and a good starting point for asking publishers what their “e-editions” have to offer.

Educators or those making the decisions as to what “digital” textbooks they buy – need to do their homework, ask the right questions regarding feature sets, and factor in the pros and cons before diving in.

P.S. I’m also not saying wether or not the school that I work at, made good-or-bad decisions regarding the digital texts that we currently use. The market of “e-editions” is evolving, and items on my checklist may not have been available when x-y-or-z was offered.

What I consider to be a true “e-book” . . .

Obviously it must be a digital version of a publication; 1
One that can be downloaded/copied to a device
(iPad, iPhone, Kindle, Nook, Computer, etc);
Be available for loading on multiple devices,
without having to pay for additional copies;
Does not require me to be online to view it;
Distributed in a standards format [that my device(s) can support]
(ePUB, HTML, maybe PDF, etc); 2
Does not require Flash player, or some propriety plug-in/viewer
[caveat being Kindle like reader/manager Apps]; 3
Font style and size can be customized as a user preference;
If not “e-ink”: customizable “view color”: black on white, sepia tone, white on black, etc.
Must be searchable, and have “chapter” links in a TOC for quick navigation;
Be able to highlight/annotate/or copy for citation/research purposes;
Should not expire, once I have a copy I should be able to continue to utilize it;
Being able to receive small updates for correcting errors, etc is a huge bonus 4

The difference between labeling content as “e-editions”, “digital copy”, etc . . .

I just purchased a strategy guide (I know) and one of its “selling points”, was that it included a “Free Digital Copy”. There wasn’t any explanation as to what format it was – but I investigated anyway, obviously hoping for the best!

When I finally figured out how to redeem the code, I was disappointed to find out that the “digital copy” was: entirely FLASH-BASED, requires that you be online to access it (those wanting to “download” or “view offline” need not apply), wasn’t optimized for online viewing (was just images of the pages exported from their page-layout program), wasn’t searchable, was extremely slow to load, etc (I could go on).

Review of the score card:

Y — Digital version of publication
N — Downloadable to my device(s)
N — Can be copied to multiple devices w/o more $
N — Does not require to be online to view
N — Distributed in standards format
N — Does not require Flash or other propriety viewer
N — Customizable Font style and size
N — Customizable display if not “e-ink”
N — Searchable
K — Table of Contents Navigation — Could’ve been much better
N — Highlight-able/notaion-able/copy/etc
N — Doesn’t expire (online only inherently “expire”)
U — Gets minor updates (bonus)

Key: (Y) Yes, (N) No, (K) Kinda/Sorta/Depends, (U) Unlikely

In other words: it was completely worthless to me.

Oh lookie, “e-editions” of our textbook . . .

Currently at work, we have maybe three (different) classes that utilize “e-editions” of their textbooks. I have to stress “e-editions” because they categorically fail my “e-book” checklist.

The three major culprits for failure with these particular “e-editions” are: they are wrapped within Flash, require you be online to view (entirely online – no downloadable version), and they expire (you pay for the “privilege” of having access to it for a specific period of time).

The classes have a classroom set of textbooks for school, but students are required to plop down in front of a COMPUTER to view and read their “e-edition” of the textbook. I state “computer” because even those with Android tablets have told me that the Flash-based “e-editions” are not viewable on them! LMAO

Checklist / score card for School’s “e-editions”:

Y — Digital version of publication
N — Downloadable to device(s)
N — Can be copied to multiple devices w/o more $
N — Does not require to be online to view
N — Distributed in standards format
N — Does not require Flash or other propriety viewer
? — Customizable Font style and size — Depends on publisher
? — Customizable display if not “e-ink” — Depends on publisher
K — Searchable — Depends on publisher
K — Table of Contents Navigation — Depends on publisher
K — Highlight-able/notaion-able/copy/etc — Depends on publisher
N — Doesn’t expire (online only inherently “expire”)
? — Gets minor updates (bonus)

Key: (Y) Yes, (N) No, (K) Kinda/Sorta/Depends, (?) Who really knows

A whole lot of nothing, money wasted, and loads of headaches / growing pains.

But what about “App editions” or “iPad only” . . .

Okay, so this is tricky. I haven’t actually gotten to use a FULL iPad only text book or FULL “App only” textbook. So it’s sorta up in the air for me to comment fully.

However, I can comment on some issues relating to my “checklist”.

Generally speaking, Most iBooks 2 style Textbooks:

Y — Digital version of publication
K — Downloadable to my device(s) — iPad only
Y — Can be copied to multiple devices w/o more $
Y — Does not require to be online to view
Y — Distributed in standards format — Caveat being for iPad
Y — Does not require Flash or other propriety viewer
K — Customizable Font style and size — Depends on publisher
? — Customizable display if not “e-ink” — Depends on publisher
Y — Searchable
Y — Table of Contents Navigation
Y — Highlight-able/notaion-able/copy/etc
Y — Doesn’t expire (online only inherently “expire”)
? — Gets minor updates (bonus)

Key: (Y) Yes, (N) No, (K) Kinda/Sorta/Depends, (?) Don’t know for certain

Looks like a winner! More publishers need to support the iPad’s iBooks 2 Textbook functionality – OR – provide similar substitutions that meet my checklist!

~ ~ ~

Generally speaking, Most app-style “e-editions”:

Y — Digital version of publication
Y — Downloadable to my device(s)
K — Can be copied to multiple devices w/o more $ — Most apps don’t require multiple copies
? — Does not require to be online to view
? — Distributed in standards format
? — Does not require Flash or other propriety viewer
? — Customizable Font style and size
? — Customizable display if not “e-ink”
? — Searchable
? — Table of Contents Navigation
? — Highlight-able/notaion-able/copy/etc
? — Doesn’t expire (online only inherently “expire”)
? — Gets minor updates (bonus)

Key: (Y) Yes, (N) No, (K) Kinda/Sorta, (?) Don’t know for certain

Lots of unanswered questions! Better to do your research before buying.

Footnotes:

Direct to digital publication counts. More power to them!
Okay, so I leave a caveat with this one. Amazon <-> Kindle, Apple <-> iBooks. I’d consider those formats acceptable. Obviously a format that can be cross platform/device is the best solution for everyone! DRM sucks!
Same caveat as footnote #2: I really don’t consider Kindle, Nook, iBook, etc distributed “e-books” requiring a “viewer”. This statement is really more about requiring Flash player or other proprietary plug-in/viewers – like what most text book companies turned to instead of say PDFs (back in the day).
One shouldn’t “expect” a publisher to offer free life-time updates, free new “editions”, or different digital versions after initial purchase (e.g. start with PDF then give a free conversion to ePUB).

My Humble Opinion…

Mr. Anderson — Mon, 14 May 2012 20:48:17 +0000

Intro / Disclaimer

The information below is that of my opinion, and not that of my employer.

I do NOT work for Apple and have no direct stake in the company.

I work in IT, and have a long work experience with Apple products.

I only recommend items that I personally use / have used, or know enough about the product/company that I can determine that I would personally use if I had that product. (e.g. I don’t have a MacBook Air, however because of my experience with Apple notebooks, I can recommend it).

Disclaimer: Use the information below at your own risk. Make your own decisions, and you need to take the consequences for those decisions. You should do your own research. Take this knowledge and use it as a spring board to help you with your research. I take no responsibility in your decision to purchase or not to purchase a specific product. You are using this information AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Your milage may vary, and others may not agree with what I have to say.

Table of Contents:

• Intro / Disclaimer
• Golden Rules
• Crystal Ball
• FAQ’s

Rule # 1:

Accept it… that when you buy an Apple product – Apple will release a newer, faster, shinier, etc etc item possibly the next day, week, or a few months from your purchase date. Live with it. Your device still works, and will continue to work. Yes it’s a downer that you no longer have the latest and greatest, but advances in technology are always moving forward (we hope!).

Sometimes you can return stuff within 14-days for a refund. If you fall into this situation you need to consider if returning the product for a new one is worth it. Ask ahead. Find out what the policies are, etc.

Rule # 2:

Buy a “stock” (off the shelf, non user configured) unit from Apple.

Do NOT “configure” one on the Apple online store or at an official Apple store.

Why? If you “configure” a unit for purchase from Apple (meaning upgrading the RAM, hard drive, etc), and it’s a LEMON you CAN NOT RETURN it to Apple for a refund. You can only return stock units for refunds.

Configured units become your property as soon as it’s shipped and you are charged. If it’s a LEMON, it’s yours, and your only recourse for issues is to have it “repaired/replaced” with identical system. Depending on where you live, you may have a “LEMON LAW” that will protect you. Do your homework on this potential issue.

I’ve been burned by this when I got a lemon – many many years ago. It was a nightmare. There has to be a MAJOR benefit in it for me to prompt me to “configure” another unit.

Note: for MacBook Pros (MBPs) you can upgrade the RAM yourself, and if you are tech savvy you can also upgrade your internal hard drive.

Rule # 3:

If you need a computer RIGHT NOW, don’t wait for that “rumored” refresh that’s supposed to come out “this month, next month, etc”. If you need one now, go buy one now.

If you CAN wait, find out what is speculated, and look at previous release schedules from Apple to get an “idea” as to when a refreshed product will be released.

Rule # 4:

BUY an EXTRA power adapter!!! Leave one at your dorm/apartment/home and have the other in your laptop bag/book-bag. Trust me. It sucks not having a power cord with you with you are low on battery life, and it’s a hassle to wind up the cord every time you leave your living quarters – you WILL forget sometime.

Rule # 5:

Buy an external hard drive – of equal/larger size of your computer’s hard drive. You will need this for on-site back up. Mac OS X includes a service called “Time Machine” that can backup your computer.

Rule # 6:

Take RUMORS/SPECULATION/REPORTS with a very large grain of salt. Apple almost NEVER pre-announces a product until they are ready to. So if you hear a report from – say Forbes – that the new such-and-such will have x-y-and-z, don’t believe it – unless it’s posted on Apple’s site.

The same goes for the general rumors of refreshes: what’s “coming” or what’s going to “be upgraded”…

If you want info, talk to someone (like me) who can give you greater insight into what is really “possible” and “probable”.

Rule # 7:

If you want to compare Macs to PCs, you must compare APPLES to APPLES.

Make sure you compare the:

• screen: type, size, resolution, pixels per inch, etc;
• ram: speed (e.g. DDR3), total ram you can upgrade to;
• hard drive: type (ssd, non-ssd), speed, connection type;
• wireless technologies: wifi (802.11 a/b/g/n, 5GHz, etc), bluetooth 2.1 or 4, etc;
• available ports: number of USB ports, usb 2 or usb 3, firewire, e-sata, etc etc;
• extras: does it have a memory card reader? what types does it support if it does, does it support a type that you actually use? Is that worth it?;
• battery life: how large is the battery, what does the manufacturer “estimate” is the run time – and what do reviews say more realistic run time actually is;
• form factor of notebook: including weight, dimensions, size of keyboard, etc etc;

etc etc etc

It’s a vary laboring thing to do – and when you do, you will find out that the Mac will be a better investment over an identically configured PC… Which isn’t even really possible because only Macs use the Apple operating system: Mac OS X. Also, you can’t find another computer manufacture that produces so durable and well built computers.

Just buy the Mac!

Rule # 8:

If you absolutely need “Windows” you can install and run Windows on the Mac! There are two ways: 1- Bootcamp, where you reboot out of the Mac side and boot up into a full Windows install. 2- Virtual machine, where you can run Windows along side your other Mac programs, and it appears as it’s own window within Mac OS X.

Okay – lets look into the crystal ball…

One of the core rumors is that the new line of MacBook Pros (MBPs) will be similar to the form factor of the MacBook Air (MBA) (very thin, and wedge shaped – when looked at from the side).

There is speculation that if Apple releases such a re-design of the MBPs that – at first – the 17″ won’t get that design, and will continue to be offered, with or without a hardware spec increase.

The most likely outcome if this new design is implicated: is that the 17″ MBP will simply be discontinued. The total sales of 17″ MBPs are very very low. They are to big and the newest hardware specs are making LARGE 17″ machines unnecessary.

Now the flip side to the “similar to the MBA form factor” is that the MBPs will keep their current shape (non wedge) but will have a few different tweaks.

The most logical change would be the loss of the optical drive. Apple clearly believes that digital distribution is the future – that’s one reason why they haven’t sold Macs with Blu-ray drives.

I’d venture to guess that if they remove the optical drive, that Apple may offer an option for a 2nd internal hard drive.

This would be a great win-win for Apple and for consumers. If Apple were to offer two drives, one would most likely be a smaller SSD (solid state disk – they are SUPER fast, and have no moving parts), along with a traditional larger 250-500+GB drive.

The SSD drive would likely have the operating system on it, as well as the built in applications.

This would allow the computer to boot up and start applications very quickly. The other drive would be for your files, music, etc. Since the traditional drive will be a much larger drive, it would make sense to move your files off onto this second drive.

Some common FAQ’s:

Q: When should I buy my system? My college orientation is in June/July.

A: Well, refer to RULE #3. However, I do recommend that you have the computer in hand at least one month before you are to be living on campus. That way you can get used to the computer.

Note however, that some schools require that you have the computer for your orientation. Ask ahead – plan ahead!

Q: My college sells the computer / and or / the college has a “tech store”, should I buy it from them?

A: It depends. Some schools offer deals (decent student discounts) or bundles (includes software) in the total.

Also some schools – may allow you to fold the cost into your tuition. ASK FIRST! NEVER ASSUME that you can do that. Plan ahead!

Q: Should I get a MacBook Air (MBA) or a MacBook Pro (MBP)?

A: That’s up to you. However, there are disadvantages for both.

MBA Pros: small, 11″ or 13″ screens, very light, solid state disk drive, long battery life

MBA Cons: no 15″ option, few ports, underpowered compared to MBPs, small internal hard drive space, NON UPGRADABLE RAM

MBP Pros: more powerful than MBAs, 13″, 15″, and 17″ screen options, more ports, decent battery life, UPGRADABLE RAM

MBP Cons: heaver and larger than MBAs, solid state disks are expensive

I would not purchase a MBA. You can not upgrade the RAM, and it’s limited to a MAX of 4GBs from Apple. In my opinion it’s underpowered unless you only need to surf the internet, email, etc.

I simply recommend MBPs.

Q: What type of processor should I get? Example choices: Core i3, i5, i7.

A: The i7 will be the best that they have to offer, the middle range is the i5, and it’s unlikely that you will see a MBP with an i3.

Q: What screen size should I get?

A: I’ve had 13″, 15″, and 17″ notebooks (all Apples). Obviously smaller is more portable.

I would say go with the 13″. Why? Well, you can always connect your MBP to an external monitor for more screen real-estate when you are home.

Q: Okay, so I can connect it to an external monitor, does it have to be an Apple monitor?

A: Nope! If you want super ease of use, with added features, and can afford the $1000 price tag of the 27″ Thunderbolt LED display from Apple – go for it.

All you need is an LCD monitor that can connect via DVI or HDMI.

Apple sells MiniDisplayPort adapters to VGA, DVI, and HDMI. Go digital- make sure DVI or HDMI.

Q: I predict that I will be using my MBP for presentations… what do I need to connect to digital projectors, etc.

A: You should buy a MiniDisplayPort to VGA adapter as well as one that goes to DVI. Keep those in your laptop bag in case you need to connect your machine to a projector.

NEVER ASSUME it will “just work”, plan ahead: look at what type of connection the projector uses, or ask the school’s IT department if they have an adapter you can borrow.

Q: How much RAM (random access memory) should I get? You tell me not to pre-configure (rule # 2)…

A: Minimum of 4GB.

If you are purchasing a MacBook Air, make sure you buy a unit with the most RAM you can when you buy it. Why? The RAM in the MacBook Air isn’t upgradable after it leaves the factory. If you get a 2GB unit, you are stuck with only 2GB or RAM.

At posting, Apple is selling all MacBook Pros with a minim with 4GB… Now, if you want more, you can upgrade the RAM from a 3rd party company. The goal should be to get 8GB of RAM or more.

I suggest a local company (Woodstock IL) called Other World Computing when buying RAM for your computer.

http://www.macsales.com/

Q: If I can’t “configure (rule # 2)” how can I get a better hard drive, and what do you recommend?

A: Well, I swear by solid state drives, but they are very expensive. I would recommend, that you get a 7200 RPM (rotations per minute) drive that is at least 250GB (or 500GB) in size, obviously larger is better.

Q: I hate using a trackpad on notebooks, can I get a mouse? Does it have to be an Apple Mouse?

A: Yes you can get a mouse, no it doesn’t have to be made by Apple.

Most USB mice “just work” for right, left click, and scrolling. If the mouse has a ton of extra buttons, those buttons most likely won’t work.

If you buy a Logitech mouse, I DO NOT RECOMMEND that you install the drivers that come with the mouse – they are crappy software drivers!

If you get an external mouse, I recommend that you get a wireless mouse.

However, it’s better to get a Bluetooth mouse. Why? If you get a wireless mouse that uses a USB dongle, you will be utilizing one of the ports all the time you want to use the mouse.

Also, even mice that offer “nano” receivers (very small – doesn’t stick out of the USB port all that much) can still be SNAGGED and cause damage.

A bluetooth mouse will utilize the built in bluetooth wireless radio – allowing the mouse to communicate with the mouse without any USB dongles.

Q: If I get a wireless mouse, what about batteries?

A: I recommend rechargeable batteries. You get more bang for your buck (over time), and at the same time keeping more disposable batteries out of the landfills.

Make sure you do your homework on what batteries are the best.

I recommend PRE-CHARGED (low shelf discharge) NiMH rechargeables. Best brand IMHO: Sanyo envelop (available on Amazon)

http://us.sanyo.com/eneloop

You will want to get a “SMART” charger.
I suggest: Sony Cycle Energy BCG34HRE4KN (search Amazon)

Q: What happens if Apple updates the MBPs without an optical drive? I’d like to be able to watch a DVD, burn a disc, or import music from CDs. How can I do that without an optical drive?

A: Apple offers an optical drive, but it’s expensive. Know that it will work without issues, however you can get a less expensive optical drive else where. Just know that some require a power outlet – or the use of TWO USB ports to power up the drive.

Q: What do you recommend for a printer?

A: I recommend Brother laser printers. More specifically, for college students, I recommend: the Brother DCP-7060D Compact Laser (b&w) Multi-Function Copier with Duplex Printing. It’s compact, and has a flat bed scanner that can be used as a copier. The scanner can also be utilized to scan items into your computer.

Brother laser toner costs less because the printer drum is a separate product. Eventually you will need to purchase a new drum. On the flip-side, HP laser toner costs more because the drum is part of the toner cartridge. I still recommend Brother over HP. Choose carefully.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND color laser printers for college students. I also DO NOT RECOMMEND inkjet (any form) for students. The cost of ink is just to much for inkjet.

Q: What about Microsoft Office?

A: Microsoft offers Office for Mac. You can purchase a copy for Students/teachers, at your local Best Buy… Most college book stores/tech stores also offer Office.

Q: Are there any free Microsoft Office alternatives?

A: Yes there are. However, if your professor or a class requires Office, then you should really utilize Office. If you are interested in a free alternative to MS Office check out LibreOffice.

http://www.libreoffice.org/

Q: In rule #5 you mention “on-site back”, what about an off-site backup?

A: An off-site backup can be as simple as a clone of your computer’s hard drive onto an external disk that you leave at your parent’s house.

Another alternative is “cloud storage”. There are services such as SpiderOak, Dropbox, Google Drive, etc. Choose wisely.

At this time, I only recommend SpiderOak, because it’s the most secure method. They offer a free 2GB account, with larger accounts available for a monthly or yearly cost.

Do your homework, research the alternatives. They all have pros/cons.

Here is a handy link to start from:

HTTP://QRLNK.US/CLOUDS

Q: Thoughts about a MBA and an iPad 3rd Generation???

A: That’s a tough one. I have a MBP 17″, an iPad 2, and an iPhone 4S. I use all three products for their intended purposes. I’ve taken just my iPad and an external keyboard to meetings. However, there are times that I NEED to use my computer for projects.

I don’t think that I could do my job without my computer. On the flip side, I can do a lot with my iPad – as I’ve adapted to it’s strengths and weaknesses. Even though I’m proficient with typing on the virtual keyboard, for extended typing, I would recommend getting the Apple Bluetooth wireless keyboard – which will work with the iPad(s).

You need to seriously evaluate what you need to do with your computer. I can’t really give a solid answer on this one.

Last, but not least…

Q: Should I get Apple Care (Apple’s extended warranty)?

A: Yes. In the event you have issues, the low cost for the Apple Care coverage is well worth it.

Note that you can purchase Apple Care within the first year after purchasing it. You should get it right away so you won’t forget.

The seas are treacherous over at No Fail Whales . . .

Mr. Anderson — Thu, 10 May 2012 13:18:42 +0000

I’ve been pretty active the last few days over at No Fail Whales.

My bank is supporting PINK – That’s the WRONG COLOR!!!

Mr. Anderson — Wed, 09 May 2012 13:01:41 +0000

Seriously – Do I have to go to my bank and explain to them why PINK is the WRONG COLOR?!?!

Why not offer a LAVENDER ribbon on the new Debit card? WHY NOT SUPPORT ALL CANCER AWARENESS!?

There are more cancers than just breast cancer!!!

Related posts: “PINK”

P.S. Thanks for having a Facebook page, where I can rant about your new 100% flash based website! Maybe I’ll jump back over there and “take a swipe [..]” at your PINK debit card!

Idiots.

Make a stand against all cancers, not just one.

“Think Different”
Wear LAVENDER.

This is a “No Fail Whales” Crossover Post

Yet another example as to why Microsoft Sucks . . .

Mr. Anderson — Tue, 08 May 2012 20:08:23 +0000

Dear Microsoft,

This is yet another example as to why you suck.

Lets have a look at the Microsoft Office 2011 (for Mac) 14.2.2 Update…

I can either choose to use the “AutoUpdate” (and waste bandwidth) or I can download it on my own – so that I have the file; allowing me to use that file on my other machines (and save bandwidth).

Lets see… Yes I’ll download it on my own.

FAIL on you:

#1: Go to microsoft.com/mac to download, it forwards me to yet another MS website. Lame.

#2: Okay, big red download button next to the file name and the file size. I click it, it takes me to another page – giving me instructions on what I already read. Just give me the stupid download, this is now the third page that I’ve visited!

#3: Where the F is the MD5 or SHA1 checksum of the download? Do you even provide any checksums at all? Oh that’s right – your Microsoft – your largest user base (consumers) are idiots, little lemmings, in your eyes. Give us checksums!

#4: I finally get the download, and go through the installer to be blocked with this:

HELLO! Users can’t quit those two services. One from you, the other from Apple. How the F am I supposed to install your shitty update if I can’t even $ kill -9 the process to proceed!?

#5: And why the F do I need to quit my browsers as well? Are you attempting to install (plugins? viewers?) without my expressed permission?!?!

If you are having trouble reading between the lines:

• Just give us the link to the flipping download without sending us all over the place.

• GIVE US CHECKSUMS for all of your downloads! Your code is already craptastic when it leaves your HQ – why not let us verify that it’s not further corrupted from your site.

• Fix your stupid updater to work without a TECH to figure out how to bypass services that can’t be killed!

• Don’t make us quit our browsers for an MS Office update!

PS: The only reason why I have your shitty software, is because of work. Viva la LibreOffice!

Matrix: 2012.05.05 – Cinco de Mayo!

Mr. Anderson — Sun, 06 May 2012 00:58:46 +0000

Today’s show notes / links:

• Pretzel Crisps® – Rethink Your Pretzel!®
» Official Site • Facebook • @PretzelCrisps

» Bluecell AAA-to-AA battery converter/adapters | Amazon

» a “lighter” Magic Mouse powered by 2xAAA’s | MrAnderson.info

• Incase EC20041 Dual USB Car Charger • Official Site • Amazon
Dual 2.1 Amp USB ports – Can charge two iPads simultaneously

• Discussion: TrueCrypt for Mac – relying on unsupported software! Death emanate?

Alright moving on…

a “lighter” Magic Mouse powered by 2xAAA’s

Mr. Anderson — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 20:10:34 +0000

I bought into the hype of the The Magic Charger by Mobee when it was released. It’s a special adapter that houses two NiMH rechargeable batteries into the bottom of the Apple Magic Mouse . The idea is that you would not have to replace the batteries because you can just rest the mouse on the induction base station to charge the battery unit.

Lets just say that it became a hassle for me. I would forget to put the mouse on the base station, and eventually the batteries would die. I was super religious at first, but seriously a wireless mouse shouldn’t have to be “docked” at any point.

Another down side that I encountered was that my wireless mouse now was quasi wired. I now had to have the induction base station connected to either a USB port or a USB AC adapter… giving the charging pad juice for charges.

The only good thing that I got out of the Mobee Magic Charger, was that my Magic Mouse felt lighter. Two AAA batteries are lighter than two AA batteries.

Last week, I came across the Bluecell AAA-to-AA battery converter/adapters . They snap apart allowing you to insert a AAA battery, and when it’s closed, it is the size of a AA battery. Note that you are going to have a much lower mAh available with AAA batteries over AA.

Anyway, I immediately wanted to test how these would work with my Apple Magic Mouse. I got two Eneloop NiMH rechargeables and put them in the adapters. I then proceeded to turn the mouse on… Just like the Magic Charger, it worked!

Wanting to find out how much a weight difference there was, I grabbed the scale and took some measurements.

Magic Mouse weight in ounces:

4.0 oz with 2xAA (Eneloop NiMH batteries)
3.4 oz with Mobee Magic Charger (2xAAA generic NiMHs)
3.2 oz with 2xAAA (Eneloop NiMH batteries) w/AAA-to-AA adapters

I know I’ll be recharging the AAAs more than a set of AAs, but I like that the Magic Mouse is a little lighter. :)

Matrix: 2012.04.28

Mr. Anderson — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 00:16:43 +0000

Today’s show notes / links:

• HP Z1 All In One Workstation PC
» Official Site | HP Z1 Teardown | iFixit

» The Onion Browser Brings Anonymous, Encrypted Browsing To iOS | Cult of Mac

» “Amazon tax” struck down in Illinois in boost for affiliates | GeekWire

» In Win for Amazon, Judge Rules Against Online Sales Tax in Illinois | Mashable

» WWDC Sells Out in 2 Hours, Leaving Many Devs Ticketless – And Outraged | Wired.com

» Google Drive vs. Dropbox, [..] and others: a cloud sync storage face-off | The Verge

» Will Google Drive Snoop Inside Your Data? Google Needs to Be Clearer | TIME

» Read This Before You Move Your Business to Google Drive | RRW

» How Does Google Drive Compare to the Competition? | Mashable

Alright moving on…

Matrix: 2012.04.21

Mr. Anderson — Sat, 21 Apr 2012 23:54:13 +0000

Today’s show notes / links:

» Update your WordPress installs to Version 3.3.2 | WordPress Codex

» Apple Pushes iCloud to MobileMe Users with Free Snow Leopard DVD | TNW

» Firefox Web Browser – Plugin Check & Updates

» Fix Firefox to Show Updated Java Plug-In | TidBITS

» Monitor OS X LaunchAgents folders to help prevent malware attacks | MacFixIt

Area’s you should consider monitoring using the technique listed in the link above:

/Library/LaunchAgents
/Library/LaunchDaemons
/System/Library/LaunchAgents
/System/Library/LaunchDaemons
username/Library/LaunchAgents
/Library/StartupItems
/Users/username/Public/
/Users/username/Public/Dropbox/
/Users/Shared/

• ClamXav
» Official Site | MU Page

Alright moving on…